The magazine of the art-form of the photo-essay
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Stephen Fry. British actor, writer and film & documentary maker
Aug 2013 BACK ISSUE
Meet Mumbai: Abysses among castes, among rich and poor, equality among the sacred and the material. So many
Gods they fall like rain during the monsoons, but only one does not evaporate: Ganesha. The one who knows, who
gives prosperity, breath, life and vital force.
by Alfons Rodriguez
From Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai families stare at the city skyline and spend evenings and weekends far away from
noisy down-town.
Women taking fresh fish from the Sasson docks - South of Colaba - to the city markets. Around 60 rupies (one dollar)
is not much for two kilos of shrimps.
A sleeper-man taking a rest during the morning, in the down town, near The Gate of India. Any place is a good place
to sleep.
The Sasson Docks is one of the most lively zones of the south city. Fishermen frequent this area with a frenetic
activity all day long.
On most of the big building sites, workers are under a sort of slavery or servitude; working a full day for just food and a
shared room.
Churchgate Station. A relatively calm morning. During rush hour, almost a million people cross this main station in
Mumbai.
Churchgate Station. Trains are the most popular form of transportation in Mumbai with several millions using them
daily.
Sleepers again. Any corner, any place is the perfect place to get a nap; no matter where and when and how crowded
be the improvised bed.
From Nariman Point, youngsters look West with hope and expectation at the arrival of a happy day; when this horizon
won’t be grey and won’t be covered by a murky life of scarcity.
All along Marine Drive, young couples look at the future thinking of the rich quarter of Malabar Hills or beyond. Love
and hope, but a disjointed horizon.
The Dobhi Ghats are problably the biggest laundry in the world. Thousands of people live in and work in this huge
quarter, enterely dedicated to washing the clothes of the city. The people who live and work here are becoming a kind
of subcaste.
Is not easy to find solitude in this crowded city. Almost every minute of the day one is surrounded by a swirling sea of
people. But sometimes, it happens, maybe.....
In Hanuman Nagar, a huge slum part of New Mumbai, more than 20,000 people are piled up in a few hundreds plastic
shacks, with no water or electricity. But their mornings are like ours; the beginning of a new day in which to do great
things.
Northen coast of Greater Mumbai. Geographically, the City is an island. The coast line is a very busy area inhabited
by millions of people, and most of it is an enormous industrial belt.
Gorei Kadhi, one of the biggest dumping sites of the city. In this huge quantity of garbage, hundreds of children and
women work everyday, just to make a few rupies. The atmosphere is unbreathable.
Around The Gate of India, the iconic and touristic place of one of the coolest Mumbai spots. Millionaires from the
luxury Taj Mahal Hotel pass-by children who spend the night on the street.
Victoria Station kids are living in their own fantasies, caused by drugs and glue. Usually they don't reach adult age. A
lack of everything, makes them disregard their lives and yet brave at same time. They are evicted by society. They
live on the street or inside the main train station. There, they spend their lives, taking drugs and waiting for the end…
Around Cuffe Docks, East of Colaba, an inlet covered by garbage is where fishermen come home to after their hard
day’s work. Children wait for them, being ignorant of the sad future that stretches out ahead of them; a future identical
to their parents’ past.
Chowpatty Beach. In front of the rich quarter, Malabar Hills. This beach is a metaphor. Like an open door through
which hope and freedom can possibly be reached.