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The magazine of the art-form of the photo-essay “A free, really high quality photo-essay magazine.  Fabulous!” Stephen Fry. British actor, writer and film & documentary maker
Jan 2015 back issue
by Jack Fillery
The Mule Men of Petra Back to menu
Petra, described by UNESCO as 'on of the most precious culture properties of man's cultural heritage', lies in the South West of Jordan, close to the border of Gaza. The World Heritage site, which has become the symbol of Jordan, was established by the Nabatean people around 312BC, was later invaded and expanded by the Romans, and subsequently the Byzantines, and is now invaded by hoards of tourists each year who make the pilgrimage to witness the incredible feats of engineering and artistry of this early civilisation (and to pay homage to Indiana Jones!). Amongst the ruins of this ancient site, there roam a people as ancient as the carvings themselves. These are the Bedouin people of Petra ('Banū' in arabic); distant relatives of the old residents, who have moved away from their desert-bound semi-nomadic lifestyle to set up shop in providing transport for the more adventurous and less mobile visitors. Whether horse, mule or camel, the Banū appear to have a strong relationship with their animals, which historically enabled them to drift through the sands of surrounding deserts in search of trade and water, and which now provide them with a new form of livelihood in the tourist trade.
An adolescent rider rests with his horse.
The Siq, a natural narrow chasmm which leads to the Treasury, reverberates with the sound of hooves and rattling carts ferrying tourists to and from the site.
The camel is the traditional vehicle of the Bedouin people, and still plays an important role in trade. However, many of the Bedouin people who still live a semi-nomadic lifestyle have traded their camels in favour of a 4x4.
A Bedouin residence, the window and doorway blackened by countless years of smoke from the cooking fires.
Mule with crates.
Cave door.
All the equine activity isn't without its drawbacks, and there are teams of 'dung heapers' whose job it is to collect all the leavings of the animals.
Horses crossing.
Although not officially sanctioned, many of the Banū still make their homes in the site of Petra. Women sell bedouin crafts from ramshackle stalls made of goat skin and wood and boys herd their sheep amongst the ruins.
A young Banū boy studies an information leaflet on the historical Petra. Although hiring mules, horses and camels to giddy tourists can be a lucrative business, multilingual guides earn a relative fortune. Many of the young riders here have a basic grasp of a whole host of languages, including German, French, English, Spanish and Mandarin, in which they recite learned facts about the ancient monument.
Mule nosebag,
Child in hut.
Petra peek view.
Tea boy.
The mule plays an important role in transport for the bedouin people. Although slower and smaller than their equine cousins, they are the load bearers, able to carry huge weights in rocky terrain.
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