The magazine of the art-form of the photo-essay
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Stephen Fry. British actor, writer and film & documentary maker
Jan 2015 back issue
by Jack Fillery
Petra, described by UNESCO as 'on of the most precious culture properties of man's cultural heritage', lies in the
South West of Jordan, close to the border of Gaza. The World Heritage site, which has become the symbol of Jordan,
was established by the Nabatean people around 312BC, was later invaded and expanded by the Romans, and
subsequently the Byzantines, and is now invaded by hoards of tourists each year who make the pilgrimage to witness
the incredible feats of engineering and artistry of this early civilisation (and to pay homage to Indiana Jones!).
Amongst the ruins of this ancient site, there roam a people as ancient as the carvings themselves. These are the
Bedouin people of Petra ('Banū' in arabic); distant relatives of the old residents, who have moved away from their
desert-bound semi-nomadic lifestyle to set up shop in providing transport for the more adventurous and less mobile
visitors.
Whether horse, mule or camel, the Banū appear to have a strong relationship with their animals, which historically
enabled them to drift through the sands of surrounding deserts in search of trade and water, and which now provide
them with a new form of livelihood in the tourist trade.
An adolescent rider rests with his horse.
The Siq, a natural narrow chasmm which leads to the
Treasury, reverberates with the sound of hooves and
rattling carts ferrying tourists to and from the site.
The camel is the traditional vehicle of the Bedouin people,
and still plays an important role in trade. However, many
of the Bedouin people who still live a semi-nomadic
lifestyle have traded their camels in favour of a 4x4.
A Bedouin residence, the window and doorway blackened by countless years of smoke from the cooking fires.
Mule with crates.
Cave door.
All the equine activity isn't without its drawbacks, and there
are teams of 'dung heapers' whose job it is to collect all the
leavings of the animals.
Horses crossing.
Although not officially sanctioned, many of the Banū still make their homes in the site of Petra. Women sell bedouin
crafts from ramshackle stalls made of goat skin and wood and boys herd their sheep amongst the ruins.
A young Banū boy studies an information leaflet on the
historical Petra. Although hiring mules, horses and
camels to giddy tourists can be a lucrative business,
multilingual guides earn a relative fortune. Many of the
young riders here have a basic grasp of a whole host of
languages, including German, French, English, Spanish
and Mandarin, in which they recite learned facts about
the ancient monument.
Mule nosebag,
Child in hut.
Petra peek view.
Tea boy.
The mule plays an important role in transport for the bedouin people. Although slower and smaller than their equine
cousins, they are the load bearers, able to carry huge weights in rocky terrain.