. MARCH 2013 BACK ISSUE by Jim Hollander Everyone remembers Christmas carols and when visiting the little town of Bethlehem, just south of Jerusalem, in the West Bank, one cannot help but hum and whistle them continuously. "O come let us adore him..." The phrase is on everyone's mind. It is the lead-up to Christmas and despite sunny weather in the low 80s, inside the ancient Church of the Nativity it is cool, a bit musty, and packed.  Tourists form the US, pilgrims from Moscow and Kiev, backpackers from Australia and 'peligrinos' from Spain. All have flocked here to revere the place where the Baby Jesus was born to the Virgin Mary. To many, many, millions of believers around the world from Japan to Argentina, a visit to Bethlehem is one of those must-see places, such as Venice. It is a unique visit, usually filled with piety with a large pinch of awe. This year was particularly crowded with Christians from Nigeria, but Italy was well represented, as was Spain. The church is administered by three main Christian faiths: The Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic and Armenians, each of whom has a permanent presence in the church, and profoundly and, if I may say "religiously," guard and protect their church's territory and practices. Therefore there are several Christmases, daily services on a rotational basis and times when visitors are abruptly ordered to leave an area of the ancient church, usually by a bearded priest. There is a political side to Bethlehem as well; from a pilgrim's experience in crossing through Israel's ‘Wall’ or 'separation barrier,' as they like to call it, to the siege by armed Palestinian gunmen inside the church during the Intifada in 2002, but all that I leave for another story. People flock to Bethlehem not to shop for trinkets made of olive wood in Manger Square, or drink the exquisite back coffee for sale in the cafes, but to visit the Grotto and to see, touch and pray at the 14-pointed silver star marking the birthplace of Jesus. Prayers are said. Glory is praised on Mary and some even break out in soft song: Round yon virgin mother and child Holy infant so tender and mild Sleep in heavenly peace! All are impressed to be in such an old structure and are quite surprised and relieved to see the experience has not been modernized and sanitized. There is mold on the walls, the paint is peeling in places or none exists, and the ceiling is blackened by several thousands years of continual use. Oil lamps are used in place of electricity. The Church of the Nativity is considered the oldest basilica in the world, established as such in 339 AD, and it shows in its authenticity, thankfully.   Peace on earth and mercy mild God and sinners reconcile. Joyful all ye nations rise Join the triumph of the skies; With the angelic host proclaim 'Christ is born in Bethlehem' Hark! the herald angels sing Glory to the newborn King. Armenian Orthodox clergy with their brooms, piles of dirty saw dust, and Jerry cans of kerosene (L) as they clean their section of the Church of the Nativity, the traditionally accepted place where Jesus Christ was born. Paintings are removed from the walls, ledges are dusted and even the wood furniture is oiled as the entire church is cleaned by all the Christian faith one day of the year, January 2, 2013. Each of the Christian sects or faiths can only clean their designated area of the ancient church and Palestinian police are standing by in case brawls break out, which did not occur this year. Orthodox Christian clergy with brooms sweeping up saw dust in between the double red stone columns and the main nave (behind) in the Church of the Nativity, the traditionally accepted place where Jesus Christ was born, in the West Bank town of Bethlehem, on January 2, 2013, on the one day of the year that the ancient church is entirely cleaned by all the Christian faiths. A member of the Greek Orthodox clergy separates paper money he has collected from Orthodox Christian faithfuls visiting the 'Grotto' and many, like this young couple who prostrate themselves, want to linger for a bit at the silver star in the niche lit by oil lamps, marking the birthplace of Jesus Christ. There are sometimes very long lines and waits to get into the Grotto, or cave, and one tour guide was overheard saying loudly, "touch and go, touch and go," to keep the line moving along. Greek Orthodox Christian clergy carry stacks of brooms as the cleaning of the Church of the Nativity is completed in the West Bank town of Bethlehem on January 2, 2013. The church is cleaned by all the Christian faiths who agree beforehand what day it will be and then assemble their faithful, including monks and priests, to help clean their respective areas of the ancient basilica. The floors are soaked in kerosene which is then mixed with saw dust to soak up the accumulated grime, leaving the church smelling like a combustion tank, and giving everyone headaches. Each of the Christian sects or faiths can only clean their designated area of the ancient church and Palestinian police are standing by in case brawls break out, which did not occur this year. Orthodox Christian clergy sweep up saw dust as they clean the double column aisle to the side of the main nave in the Church of the Nativity, on January 2, 2013. An Armenian Orthodox Christian priest finishing up a short religious service in the 'Grotto,' in the Church of the Nativity, at the place where Jesus Christ was born. as Orthodox Christians celebrate their Christmas eve, January 6, 2013. I was able to quietly get down the stairs into the Grotto as a Palestinian policeman was making all the visitors leave so the service could take place promptly. He let me stay and shoot several photos of the service, but not many. The chanting prayers dulled the noise of the camera's shutter. Greek Orthodox choirboys trying to keep their candles from going out as they wait in a windy, cold Manger Square, in the West Bank town of Bethlehem, for the Greek Orthodox Christmas eve procession to get underway, on January 6, 2013. Clergy and faithful were waiting for the arrival of the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of the Holy Land Theophilos, who then takes part in the procession to the Church of the Nativity, the place accepted by Christians where Jesus Christ was born to the Virgin Mary. A Russian girl stops to stare at old iconic paintings of the Virgin Mary with the Baby Jesus hanging in the ‘Grotto’ or cave, in the Church of the Nativity in the West Bank town of Bethlehem, 30 May 2012. The grotto is the accepted site of the birth of Jesus Christ to the Virgin Mary. This picture is from May 5, 2012 as I came to show the church to a visiting family. The church was jam packed with Russian pilgrims, and this girl's pose and body language on viewing these paintings struck me as revealing both her religiosity and something of the latent mother in her. It was also amazing that no other people were around her for a few seconds as I took the photograph. A Greek Orthodox cross carried by clergy passes the Church of the Nativity, as other clergy are allow to stand on the church's roof to view the procession that includes the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of the Holy Land, Theophilos, on January 6, 2013. A young Russian Orthodox Christian girl hugs a large marble column in the central nave of the Church of the Nativity. Her family was nearby and talking about the experience of visiting the Grotto, when the girl just went off by herself to feel the smoothness of the column, lost in her thoughts. A Greek Orthodox woman with tears in her eyes as she waits with several nuns nearby for a service on the Orthodox Christmas eve, January 6, 2013, inside the Church of the Nativity. Nuns waiting for the Greek Orthodox Christmas eve procession to get underway inside the Church of the Nativity, January 2013.  The Christmas eve procession leaves the ancient church and goes to Manger Square where clergy and faithful and tourists view the arrival of the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of the Holy Land, Theophilos, who leads the procession back into the church for prayers and a service prior to the Orthodox midnight mass. Palestinian women watching a Christian man from Nigeria as he prostrates himself on the stone floor of a patio in the Church of Saint Catherine, adjacent to the Church of the Nativity, on December 17, 2012. The girls seemed in awe of people with such passion for prayer, that they would lay down. A group of some 20 Nigerians were kneeling and reciting prayers after completing their visit to the church where Jesus was born to the Virgin Mary. A couple embrace while crying as they pray on the floor of the 'Grotto' in the Church of the Nativity, 17 December 2012. Many visitors to this small underground chamber become overcome with emotions on being at Christ's birthplace. A Christian visitor walking through Manger Square in the West Bank town of Bethlehem, 17 December 2012, passing the large Christmas tree erected for the holidays and a mosque (R) as a group of Christians make their way to the Church of the Nativity (not seen).  Pilgrims, tourists and Christian faithful flock to the town where Jesus was born in the lead up to the festivities during Christmas. Back to current issue